A ‘Sadhya’ ( feast, or a banquet) is an essential part of any celebration in Kerala, be it a birthday, naming ceremony, marriage or just about any occasion for rejoicing. The traditional sadhya is a lunch and is no casual affair, which can be rustled up at short notice. There is a customary protocol for conducting it, and it takes a specialized service that adheres to tradition in the matter of the menu, preparation and final serving of the food.
The origins of sadhya are as rich and layered as the dishes it comprises. The origins of this tradition can be traced back to the royal courts of Kerala, particularly in the Travancore and Kochi kingdoms. At that time, temple festivals and royal events required generous food offerings. Over the years, what began as a religious and royal offering evolved into a symbol of celebration, hospitality, and unity among all communities in Kerala.
Once the decision to host a sadhya is made, the host has to find the right cook with adequate expertise and experience to cater. In those days, the traditional feasts were typically handled by Brahmins. Each area was renowned for personalities like Subbu Vadhyar, Anatharama Iyer, or a Pattabhi, as well as later figures such as Raman Nair, Paramu Pillai, and Govindankutty, all of whom have now become part of history. The chosen one was briefed for the terms and size of the invitees. The menu is standard, and before D-Day, he arrives with his team and takes over the designated cooking area in the house. The air is soon filled with instructions and information. The noise from the operation—handling and arranging vessels, grinding, grating, and pounding—prevents any sleep for those involved or nearby. And probably signals the early promise of success of the event!
A traditional Sadhya can include anywhere from 24 to over 64 items, all served in a specific sequence and layout. Each dish is served in a particular order and spot on the banana leaf, adhering to a cultural code that ensures harmony of flavor and etiquette. Some iconic dishes include:
Chips Salt, Pazham /Banana,
and snacks: Pappadam-
(Big and small )
Urad dal Pappad,
Nendran chips, jackfruit
chips,
Yam fried chips, Bitter gourd
chips,
Sharkara vattu upperi,
Kondattam- Green chilli fries
Kaliyadakka,
Unniyappam
Pickles : Kadukku manga achar/
instant mango pickle,
Naranga achar/lemon pickle,
Inji puli/ ginger curry,
ginger curry,
Kari Naranga/Vadugapulli
ginger curry,Achar/
Wild Lemon Achar,
Inji thayir/ Ginger curd mix,
Achar/
Nellikka achar /Gooseberry
Main Course: Rice ( white rice/ brown-Matta rice ) Ghee, Parippu/ Dal curry
Sambar ( varutharacha
sambar, without coconut)
Ulli / Onion Sambar, Ulli
theeyal
(shallots in coconut gravy)
Vazhuthenaga Theeyal
(Brinjal in coconut gravy )
Pavakka Theeyal(bittergourd
gravy )
Rasam- T0matao/ garlic/
ginger/ pepper variants.
pepper variants.
Moru curry.
Side Dishes : Avial/ mixed vegetable curry
with sadya vegetables
Thoran ( cabbage, carrot,
beans, beetroot,kovakka
Payaru(long beans),
Plantain stem.
Mezhukkupiratti ( potato,
beans, long beans, Yam)
Kootukari ( yam /plantain
&Channadal )
Erisseri (pumpkin, long
beans),
Kalan ( raw banana/ raw
mango )
Olan ( black eyed peas,
beetroot andcurd )
Kichadi ( ladies
finger/cucumber)
Chammandhi ( chutney-
mint/nuts
Butter milk-salted
Desserts/Sweets : Ada pradhaman
Chakka(jackfruit)
pradhaman,
Kadalapparipu/channa moong dal
Semiya /vermicelli
payasam
Pal payasam/milk
Ari payasam ( rice, jaggery,
ghee )
Nurukku Gothambu/
Broken what payasam
Mambazha payasam/
Aval/ poha payasam
Sweei Boli
Ela Ada ( jaggery and
coconut fillings in
plantain leaf )
The finale serves as an acid test for any caterer or cook specialising in sweet dishes, particularly in the variety of Pradhamans and Payasam. While they are all loaded with calories and richly sweet, the most prestigious of them and most in demand is ‘paalada pradhaman'.
The meal concludes with more rice and curds, marking an anticlimax and the end of the Sadhya. All one hears after a satisfactory sadhya are the blurps and feeble farewells as the invitees struggle back home, replete and happily uncomfortable!
Times have changed. More and more event management companies and restaurants, are now in the fray. However, the concept of a Kerala sadhya—the traditional vegetarian feast—has remained mostly unchanged in its essential elements. The cuisine has adapted to changing times while still maintaining its fundamental dishes and the tradition of serving meals on banana leaves. Changes in ingredients, preparation methods, and the overall experience of the feast have occurred.
These changes reflect the evolving lifestyles and preferences of individuals.
The inclusion of non-vegetarian dishes in certain regions of Kerala and some families is simply due to personal preference, as it is part of their regular diet.
There is no right or wrong when it comes to food choices; it ultimately depends on individual preferences and cultural interpretations.
There is a growing trend towards incorporating more locally sourced and organic produce. The evolution of modern kitchens and cutting-edge appliances has revolutionized the way we prepare our favorite dishes. While the fundamental recipes have stood the test of time, the process of cooking has become more efficient and enjoyable than ever before! While the traditional method of serving on a banana leaf is still widely practised, some restaurants and events may offer sadhya on plates or in buffet-style arrangements.
There is growing awareness of dietary restrictions and preferences, leading some restaurants to offer vegan or gluten-free options within the sadhya.
The Sadhya is not only a showcase of culinary excellence but also a symbol of abundance, prosperity, and joy. Sharing food from the same roof promotes unity, equality, and community bonding, essential themes of celebration. It is also a gesture of respect and affection toward the guests. Serving a complete Sadhya expresses the sentiment, “You are a part of our happiness, and we honor you.”
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Very beautifully written in detail explaining the context and significance of a full course Sadhya..
ReplyDeleteI was drooling profusely when I came to various pradhamans
Eating a sadhya served in traditional and prescribed manner in a keralie house is a divine experience.. whst is served in top restaurants on festive days is not match to home made Sadhya
Very nice description of sadya. PKR
ReplyDeleteQuite a load of interesting information== Murali, Kodungallur
ReplyDeleteOutsiders have heard about Onam Sandhya, but never knew so much details that makes it an iconic event of Kerala.. one only hopes that the tradition continues to be maintained irrespective of modern times approaches to make it just one of more event of Keralites.
ReplyDeleteAppreciate the worthy comment, may I know the name also please ?
ReplyDeleteHS NARAYANAN, Chennai: Very detailed description about an iconic event of Kerala. Ver nice.
ReplyDelete